Showing posts with label Photography. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Photography. Show all posts

09 July 2017

GW Photography Article

Another useful article on how to photograph your minis. I have reproduced it here in full because I find GW articles seems to disappear or become hard to find over time, but the original can be found here:
https://www.warhammer-community.com/2016/11/13/the-model-photo-how-to-photograph-models-for-display/

The Model Photo – How to photograph models for display

We love featuring pictures of miniatures painted by you, our readers. But taking good pictures can be quite a challenge. To help you out, we’ve come up with a few photography tips and tricks to help you get the best photos of your models possible.

Setting the Scene
Before you even take out your camera, it’s important to set the scene for your pictures. We suggest a simple set-up with a plain background – a piece of paper stuck to a sturdy backdrop is a quick and easy solution and perfectly suitable for the job, providing a neutral backdrop for your models (1).
We normally use a white background behind our miniatures as it really helps show off the model, though any colour that contrasts with the miniature will work. A White Scars Space Marine, for example, will show up better on a black background (2), while an Iron Hands Space Marine would struggle to be seen at all (3).
If in doubt, stick with plain white paper – a chequered tablecloth, wooden table, fur rug or grassy lawn (yes, those are all real examples) will just confuse the outline of the model.
Top tip: If you’re really serious about photographing miniatures, look at investing in a light box. You can find them in most camera shops and online.

Lighting your Picture
When taking pictures of miniatures, you need a consistent, even light. The best way to achieve this is with lamps and, specifically, daylight bulbs (1).
Daylight bulbs provide a neutral light, not too yellow, not too blue, but just right for taking pictures of models. You can find them in most supermarkets and they’ll fit most standard desk lamps. While one lamp aimed directly at the model will work, two lamps are even better, enabling you to light your model from both sides and eliminate shadows from overhanging weapons, equipment and whatnots (4).
It’s important that no other light affects your picture, so make sure you turn off the room lights and shut the curtains or blinds before taking your picture. To the right you can see what a picture with consistent, even lighting from two lamps looks like (5), while next to it you can see the same model with just one lamp aimed at it (6).
It’s worth noting that natural daylight is not a good substitute for a light set-up, even if it is really sunny. Natural daylight varies constantly, making it hard to get the same level and colour of light in your pictures. A cloudless day, for example, will often make your pictures come out too yellow, while an overcast day will leave them blue.
Avoid using the flash setting on your camera, too. The flash is used to saturate an area with light and will often result in really harsh highlights and deep shadows.
Top tip: If you want to take lighting your pictures to the next step, look into purchasing a set of softboxes and flash lights.

The Golden Angle
Every miniature has a golden angle, a viewpoint that best captures the essence of the model. This will almost always be the front of the model, where you can see its weapons, face and body clearly (7). If you take a picture and these key areas aren’t visible (8), turn the model round a little and try another angle.
Some miniatures, like the assassin Shadowblade, can be pretty hard to photograph. If you’re ever unsure of a model’s golden angle, just have a look at how it’s been photographed on the Games Workshop webstore or in the new releases section of White Dwarf. If you match that angle, you can’t go wrong!
Another important factor to consider is the height of the camera. Looking back at the set-up in picture (1), you’ll notice the camera is level with the model, not angled down at it. We refer to this angle as a model’s-eye-view, the camera lens at the same height as the model’s eyes. If your camera is positioned too high, you’ll get a lovely shot of the model’s shoulders and the top of its head, but little else.

Image Size and Getting in Focus
Miniatures are, by their nature, pretty small, so you need to make sure your camera is close enough so they fill the frame. If the camera’s too far away (9) your models will appear tiny and the picture will be useless. Instead, move the camera in nice and close so the miniature fills the viewfinder or viewscreen.
Be careful not to cut the ends off weapons and banner poles (10), you want a picture of the whole model, not most of it. There is a down side to moving the camera too close, though – it may struggle to focus on such a close subject (11). If this happens, move the camera back from the model and try another shot. If it’s still out of focus, move the camera back and try again.
There’s a lot of trial and error involved in photographing miniatures, so don’t worry if it takes a few goes to get it right.
Top tip: If you have to pull the camera back so far that the model appears tiny again, don’t forget that your camera probably has a zoom function (12).
Putting all of this together should help get a good picture. But we can still do better…

Taking the Picture
There are four important settings on a camera to consider when taking pictures of miniatures: aperture, shutter speed, ISO and white balance. To alter these settings, you will need to take your camera out of its automatic setting and put it in manual.
Aperture: Use the highest setting
The aperture controls how much light comes through the lens and how much of the model you will be able to get in focus. It is often referred to as the f-number or f-stop. The higher you can set the f-stop, the better. Most DSLR cameras will have an f-stop up to 22, while compact cameras reach around 8. We recommend using a high f-stop to help get more of your model in focus (13), as a low one will leave parts of it fuzzy and out of focus (14).

Shutter speed: The longer the better
The longer the camera’s shutter stays open while taking the picture, the more light will be let in. Start with a shutter speed of 1/100th of a second (15). You can then reduce the shutter speed to let more light into the camera and brighten your photo (16). Be wary of leaving the shutter open too long, though, as this can lead to image blur if you’re holding the camera when you take the picture.
Top tip: Invest in a tripod to keep the camera steady. Use the camera’s timer function, too, so you’re not touching the camera at all when the picture is taken.

ISO: Set it low
The ISO controls how sensitive the camera is to light. A high ISO puts more light into the picture, but runs the risk of making the image grainy (17). Set the ISO as low as possible and only increase it if you need a brighter photo. (18).

White Balance
White Balance controls the colour of your photo. As we recommend daylight bulbs, you should change your white balance setting to ‘Daylight’. This should give you consistent colour in your photos. If you are using a different light source, adjust your settings to match.


13 May 2015

Playing with your Pics

Sketch Effect
Inspired by the lovely artwork in my new Battlefront Blitzkrieg rulebook, I've been playing about with a free online photo manipulation tool, modifying one of my favourite pics which is an M60 Patton tank sitting on high ground and dominating my Vietnam battlefield.

These are some of my favourite ones and I thought you guys might be interested.  This is the tool I used: http://www.picturetopeople.org

Anyone else found some good effects or tools to play with their model pics?

"Crackle Effect" 
"Cartoonizer effect"
"Grunge Effect"
The original pic

12 May 2012

Photo-enhancing Tutorial

I must admit to being rather average with my pics and very envious of those who can do all the great extras like skylines and effects.  I found this tutorial to help me along and thought it might be useful for others too: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/232004.page

27 August 2011

Modelling pictures to aspire to

Some amazing pics at this link, all achieved through natural lighting effects, not photoshop manipulation.
In this case star wars lego has been used, but the effects for wargames could be awesome.

http://smashingpicture.com/brilliant-photos-by-shobrick/

20 June 2011

Photographing terrain

Another neat series of articles about taking pics, from basics to special effects.  I am again reminded that I need to sort out my lighting if I ever want to do anything about improving my images
http://www.terragenesis.co.uk/infopages/page400.html

01 February 2011

Photography at Conventions

Another great tutorial from "Big Lee", this time on optimising your convention pics - its very dissappointing when sharing your pics of an amazing setup at a convention table to find them rubbish...

Personally I have found one of those miniature tripods to be invaluable (but its now broken!), and then use the timer function to elimate any camera movement.
 ----------------------------------------------------------------------

This post is in response to several requests both here on my blog and on the TMP forum for info on how I took my pictures at this years Salute. I'm not an accomplished photographer by any means, and my head hurts when people start talking about f-stops and apertures, but I have learned how to take a half decent image by following some simple rules. I've always taken the view that achieving a good picture isn't and shouldn't be some mystical zen skill only mastered by professionals. If you take pictures based on sound techniques then even a grunt like me can get some good shots.

I used a Cannon EOS 500D with a 18-55mm Lens for my pictures but the same techniques can help you when taking pictures with compact cameras. Most of the pictures I took were taken with the camera on the 'P' Setting. This is like full Auto but with more control. So for instance I was able to adjust the exposure of the pictures without going near the AV (Aperture) controls. Similarly I could adjust the speed or ISO setting when desired, not that I did that much. One of the reasons I choose the P settings rather than the Full Auto (green square) mode was the ability to turn off the flash and shoot with available light.
Lighting : Most cameras have a built in flash and my 500D is no exception. However I found the pictures I took with flash were too harshly lit. Flash lit pictures are also not suitable for scenes that require large Depth of Field. I chose to shoot most of my pictures with the flash off because the lighting at salute was very good compared to some shows I have attended.

Composition : The Rule of Thirds is a principle of composition that helps you keep your images dynamic. It gives you eight elements to work with -four lines of intersection and four power points. Placing points of interest along the lines or at the power points tends to create a more interesting composition.

Stability : I decided not to bring a Monopod or tripod to Salute, partly because I didn't want to get in other peoples way but also because I knew I would be mixing photography with shopping and didn't want to be weighed down with equipment. I compensated by adopting bracing my arms and legs in a ridged frame (arms tight in and locked against the body) to minimise camera shake. I also took advantage of any available object (a chair back, a display stand or a table edge) as improvised tripods. Finally I briefly exhale and hold my breath when I press the shutter to keep myself as stable as possible.
 
Innovation : Having said "here are the rules of composition" you need to break them occasionally. Try something different instead of having all your pictures from head height try some high shots, low shots and weird (angled) shots.

 Get snap happy : Take lots of pictures. My camera has an 8gb memory card and at maximum resolution I can shoot over 1200 photo's. So I shot loads of pictures knowing I could edit out the rubbish later. I also looked for the picture within a picture. Many of my photo's are cropped from larger pictures that didn't work compositionally but held within them a good image.

Depth of Field : I like to take advantage of Depth of Field (DoF) to emphasis one part of a picture over another. I wanted to focus on the Aircraft in this picture but still be able to see some of the background. So I zoomed in - which shortened the DoF - and manually focused on the plane separating both elements without loosing all detail.


Technical Stuff : When I got home I downloaded all my pictures and started the first edit of pictures, discarding obviously blurred or pointless shots. I then looked for the pictures within my pictures and cropped those pictures that would benefit compositionally from a trim. I then adjusted the brightness on some pictures and I also slightly adjusted the colour temperature of the finished pictures to compensate for the halogen light inside the exhibition centre. Other than that the finished pictures are as they were taken without any complex digital darkroom wizardry involved.

I must stress again I'm not a pro and I have no aspirations or allusions to being one. The tips I have listed here are the things I keep in my mind when taking a picture and, on the whole, they seem work for me.


http://bigleesminipaintingblog.blogspot.com/2010/04/photography-at-conventions.html

07 June 2008

Light Tent

This may be an inexpensive way to drastically improve taking pics of my recent activity - I will try to make one...one day!

http://digital-photography-school.com/blog/how-to-make-a-inexpensive-light-tent/