Making 1:1 Scale Camouflage

Normally I detest the large scale 1:1 painting and modelling projects.  You know the sort: Bathrooms, bedrooms, etc -  yuk.  And so difficult to wash and dry brush too.  But despite my utter lack of time and need to get something done for the painting challenge, I diverted to help the Lad make a ghille suit (known in Oz as a yowie suit) for his upcoming cadet camp

A couple of sets of camps (this is the Australian pattern known as AusCam), a hot glue gun, a day and a half, and several burns later it was time to try it out:

The deadly Park Warrior in action!

So some good man time together and a happy lad at the end of the day.  But no models.
But if you get 5points for a 28mm figure,  what is a 1.7m figure worth? :-)

Vehicle painting tips

Great little article posted this week by Leif Eriksson with some great tips on the differences between painting a figure and a vehicle.   Blindingly obvious really, but I've never seen it written so clearly and concisely, or thought about it in this way before.

Its particularly useful for painting block coloured vehicles vice camo, so this will be most useful for my upcoming North Africa project - a theme he uses in his examples.

Great Job Leif- thanks for sharing!

http://figurfanatikern.blogspot.com/2015/06/how-to-paint-vehicles-viking-way.html?showComment=1435181977060#c7168326238959622765

Jungle Foliage

Amongst Mig's recent releases are three interesting jungle foliage sets: terms, plans and jungle leaves.

They are at the 28mm+ size scales but would make great additions to Heavy jungles and Lost World style projects.  No good for historical 15s though sadly

http://www.migjimenez.com/en/new-releases/464-tropical-fern.html
http://www.migjimenez.com/en/new-releases/465-ground-palms.html
http://www.migjimenez.com/en/new-releases/463-jungle-leaves.html

Safe and Sound, plus flickering explosion markers

2 days at Universal Studios was just what the Dr ordered...well a certain Lad did anyway!

Ahoy from the USA Man Cave denizens! The clan is now in New England safe and sound after a few days in LA en route and is now busy arranging the various related domestics.  More on that shortly but thanks to everyone for their well wishes.  Looks like we will be in a hotel for more than a few weeks while our new house is made ready so I'll be living vicariously through others' blogs for awhile yet!

And to that end may I point you toward Eric of the wonderfully named Shed Wars blog, who has made some lovely flickering destruction markers just perfect for either 15 or 28mm tanks.  I've wanted to make some of these for ages but never got to it - I even have 2 packets of the electric lights in the Man Cave.  Well I did, they are in storage now waiting for some love when I get home, but at least I'll know what to do now! Check out Eric's work here:

http://shedwars.blogspot.com/2014/07/explosions-nice-and-easy.html

Eric's stirling work- pic from his blog

Masterclass Hovel

Another top notch model scratch built by Tony
http://dampfpanzerwagon.blogspot.com.au/2012/04/witchlands-hovel-masterclass-article.html

Painting Rust Effects

I've always had a hard time trying to get realistic rust effects.  PaintBard has posted this rather fantastic tutorial to get a range of rust effects.  I've taken it from his blog here: http://paintbard.blogspot.com/2011/01/painting-rust-effects.html

Painting Rust Effects

I have been asked several times now on how I paint rust onto my models. I thought it would be a better idea to not only show and explain how I do it, but what has inspired me on my travels across the great land known as Internet.

To start with, I originally used very little rust effects in my painting. I then got my hands on a great paint called Smoke. I used this on everything I could get my hands on, and still do to this day! But the one thing it did for me was to make me want to try and “dirty” my models.

Oh, it’s fine to have something dirty. But try explaining why you are carting something rusty or covered in mud, into the house to your wife! It doesn’t go over so great. But painting it on will work, it’s just so damn hard to make it look realistic!

Dirty and rusty have been a source of curiosity to me for years, and thanks to the internet, you can find all kinds of examples of it. I kick myself now, because I don’t have a documented list of all the fantastic examples of how to create the rust effect that I have come across over the years. One of the best sources I have gotten my hands on though is the following book: Forge World’s “Model MasterClass” Volume 1. Let me tell you, I will be buying book two when it comes out! This book is fantastic!!

RUST

My personal technique for rust is simple. Chainmail, followed by some of the new washes, and then apply rust. I have heard people trying all kinds of variances for this, but my simple method saves time and effort and comes out looking good.

a) Basecoat metallic areas in Chainmail. I have moved to chainmail from Boltgun simply because of the washes. It really dulls the metallics, whereas in the past before washes Boltgun metal was dull enough to hit the mark for me.

b) Apply the washes. I love Devlan mud. I will always use it above any other choices. You can add Badab Black if you want to darken it and add an extra layer of complexity, but it’s not necessary.

c) Let it DRY!! Do not paint while the wash is wet. Go watch TV, or go to the bathroom or something. Just let it dry!

d) Check to make sure the wash is dry. If it’s not dry, repeat step C.

e) Now for the rust. This is where I have three different methods. Firstly, you can create a mixture using white spirits like my book suggests. This isn’t a bad way to go, but beware, you are adding in oil paints etc to your painting style, and some people may be uncomfortable with that. This technique I combined three separate weathering powders, some burnt umber oil paint and white spirits. Once dry it is quite dark, looks great, and I finish it off with 2:1 (water to fiery orange) anywhere I want to change the color. I will add here that I think it needs to be applied in a patchy manner along full surfaces, or around bolts or other protrusions. Let it dry, and reapply anywhere you want the orange to ‘pop’ a bit more.

Second technique is using water and weathering powders. Load your brush and apply it to the powders you have on your painting palette. Go dark powders, followed by lighter orange powders once the dark is dry. Random dab the rusts in places to create a greater sense of visual. Remember that rust changes color depending on its age. Finish it off with the fiery orange technique.

The third technique is simple. Vermin brown paint, or parasite brown (any brown paint that has an orange element to it) mixed with water. Usually 2:1 mix of water to paint. Follow this up with the fiery orange from previous techniques.

A final technique that I have tried on some test models is the following: Begin by base coating all of the metal areas with Boltgun Metal. Then stipple it with Macharius Solar Orange to give it a rusty look. A wash of Devlan Mud and Badab Black was then applied to add shading.
I have also begun using a technique known as painting Verdegris. This is the application of weathering to bronze/copper.

I have found a couple of different ways to do this. Both are simple. The first and easiest is the application of Ice blue (heavily watered down) along areas that would allow water to sit in place. The second has been hawk turquoise, but I have had less success using this color. I have also seen some people add some green to either mixture. However you do yours, remember to water down your paints. Its easier to add successive layers of watered down paints then it is to remove a thick coat of paint.
I am not the only person that paints rust in the world, thankfully. Many others have techniques that work wonders for them. I have decided to include many other recipes and various techniques for you to try. There is always one that speaks loudest to us, and I won’t pretend to assume that my methods are the best or only ones.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Screaming 3agle (http://striking3agle.blogspot.com/) has several excellent weathering techniques on his website. I wish I had the skills with an airbrush that he has. Some of his results are truly awesome!

Here is a sample of my favorite weathering technique from his website.

What we need:

Boltgun Metal. It is important to use this paint. Mithrill Silver is too bright. Metalics by Vallejo are very bad for this kind of paint job, glazes run-off it and it is very hard to stain it.

1) Vallejo Air Rust
2) Vallejo Air Cam. Medium Brown
3) Tamiya xf-1 Flat Black
4) MiG Pigments Dust(light brown)
5) Blood Red
6) Wet pallet

Apply Vallejo Air Rust on wet pallet and mix it with water (relation 1:5) and apply about 3 thin layers on spear (remember that previous layer must by dry).

Step III
Do the same thing with Vallejo Air Cam. Medium Brown, if you still have Rust on pallet, don't afraid to mix it with Brown. Apply 3 thin layers on spear.

Step IV
Apply Tamiya Black on pallet and mix it with Vallejo Brown (1:1). Paint shadows on spear , about 1-2 layers (XF-1 has strong pigment, so be careful). If you don't have MiG pigment (or home made powdered dry pastels), move to Step VII.

Step V
Pigment time: Mix a little (like on picture) part of pigment with blood red and water (1:5) and apply 1 thin layer on random spear parts.

Step VI
If you want to have really rusty weapons, repeat Step V (several times if you paint nurgle army).

Step VI
Try a very simple thing for the end, dry brush the spear with Boltgun Metal. But remember, not aggressive hitting miniature by your brush or not shuffle. Just gently, quick moves with your brush (the bigger one, I used Army Painter Drybrush Brush).

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Another great Website is this one by Tinweasel. Here he uses actual metal to make “go figure” realistic looking rust!!

http://home.wideopenwest.com/~tinweasel/rust_tut.html

Call me crazy (or suddenly inspired) but the essential heart of this "natural" weathering technique is the Rust Mixture itself. This was a recipe I learned many, many, many years ago in chemistry class - it does involve some harmful chemicals, an ongoing chemical reaction, and possible adverse affects to skin, clothing, and any oxidixable metal. Consider yourself warned! The Mixture is as follows:

• 1 part liquid bleach

• 3 parts household strength white vinegar

• 1 suitably-sized clean chunk of extra-fine (#0000) grade steel wool

I used a standard empty Vallejo dropper paint bottle with the steel wool placed inside prior to pouring the mixture of the two chemicals in. While not an intense chemical reaction, it does produce a somewhat significant amount of gas as a by-product over time. I found out the hard way about leaving the screw-top off the dropper bottle until the reaction subsided completely (roughly 2-3 days, perhaps more) as when I first opened it, I was spattered with overflowing Rust Mixture. Being made up of actual oxidized metal, the Rust Mixture has a tendency to settle - prior to using it as a paint make sure the bottle is well-shaken. Another word of warning - although I couldn't swear to it, I believe the vinegar/bleach/oxidized metal caused a slight chemical burn on my thumb during an accidental overflow. While I am by no means a chemistry major, I believe the bleach and vinegar as potential caustic agents would cease to be a problem once all their bonding reactions were completed on the steel wool. Likewise, given that vinegar is a mild acid and (I believe) bleach is a mild base, things should eventually subside once all chemical reactions between them and the steel wool have taken their course (again roughly 2-3 days, perhaps more.) While I can't say this is the ideal mixture for painting, as it takes some getting used to, I can safely say it's likely the most authentic rust mixture I've seen used on any miniature figures thus far, given that it is genuine rust in a bottle!

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Rust in Pieces     http://www.paulbatchelor.com/Rust.html

There are many ways in which to create rust effects in miniature.

You can ink, paint, dry brush, use weathering powders etc, etc. At this point I would like to add about the use of corrosives and chemicals to achieve rust effects: stay away from them! Dangerous and pointless; and not even half as much fun or satisfaction as doing it the old fashioned way.

Anyway, without further ado, let’s get painting…

Source material:

it’s always good to have some source material if you are trying to re-create something that exists in real life, be it lizard skin, camo or fabric. The internet is a good place for this these days. However, if you’re not up with the new fangled “electro-inter-web” then you can go to a place called the library and look in book.

Know your corrosion

Rust is scientifically called oxidation, which occurs when oxygen comes into prolonged contact with certain metals. Over time, the oxygen combines with the metal at an atomic level, forming a new compound called an oxide and weakening the bonds of the metal itself. If the base metal is iron or steel, the resulting rust is properly called iron oxide and is normally orange in color. Rusted aluminum would be called aluminum oxide, copper forms copper oxide which is greenish, and so on.

The main catalyst for the rusting process is dehydrogenating oxide, but we know it better as water. Water molecules can easily penetrate the microscopic pits and cracks in any exposed metal. The hydrogen atoms present in water can combine with other elements to form acids, which will eventually cause more metal to be exposed. If sodium is present, as is the case with saltwater, corrosion will likely occur more quickly.

So, if you’re painting pirates and things in sea water add more rust.

List of colors

Listed below, in the order in which you will need to paint them, is the list of colors you’ll need to paint rust onto different metals. I will be showing you the iron oxide paint scheme in this tutorial; however the same technique is applied for all the types of metal.
Iron Oxide:

-Dark metallic paint. (Dry brush)

-Chestnut ink. (Ink wash)

-Bright silver paint. (Dry brush)

-Terracotta paint. (Watered down paint wash)

-And a mid shade of orange. (Watered down paint wash)

Aluminum Oxide:

-Dark metallic paint. (Dry brush)

-Mid metallic paint. (Dry brush)

-Black ink. (Ink wash)

-Bright silver paint. (Dry brush)

-White paint. (Watered down paint wash)


Copper Oxide:

-Dark brass metallic paint. (Dry brush)

-Mid gold metallic paint. (Dry brush)

-Green ink. (Ink wash)

-Turquoise paint. (Watered down paint wash)

-Light green paint. (Watered down paint wash)



Painting
This is a simple technique and, as stated before, just follow these same steps for each type of metal,

replacing the change of color as appropriate.

Working from a black undercoat you can either dry brush or simply paint on your base color. In this

case a dark metallic.

Once you have enough coverage allow to dry.

Slap on some neat ink. No water just plain ink straight from the pot.

Apply it to areas where rust would likely start and grow, such as areas where joins are and around bolt

heads and hinges.

These areas hold water more than the flat surfaces and are more prone to rust.

Once completely dry we then add a second dry brush of bright silver paint. This is to just tease back

the edges we may have lost while inking.


Now we add terracotta as a base for our rust. Add two parts water to one part paint and apply again to

the areas where the rust will be most prolific. You can stipple this colour onto flat surfaces to simulate

light rust that hasn’t taken hold yet.


The last step is to water down some mid-orange paint, again two parts paint to one part water.

Paint this over the terracotta, allowing some of the original colour to remain visible at the edges.

Allow to dry and bingo! You’re done!


Paul Batchelor.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 www.ehow.com/how_6547190_paint-rust-effects.html#ixzz1AgbwtjxU   Debbie Tolle

1) Apply a coat of primer designed for all surfaces and allow it dry. Drying times vary for different brands of primer, which is why you should always follow the manufacturer's instructions.

2) Paint a base coat of white acrylic latex paint on the object receiving the rust effect. Sprinkle clean sand over the random areas on the object while the paint is still wet, and allow it to dry for a minimum of 12 hours. Applying sand will give the object the look of oxidation or rough areas where rust forms. This step is optional, and is not absolutely necessary if you do not want the rough texture.

3) Pick the object up and turn it over to allow excess sand to fall off of it before applying the next coat of paint.

4) Apply dark brown paint to the object by stippling it on the surface. Stippling means to dip the brush into the paint and dab the paint on instead of brushing it on. Do not completely cover the object with the brown paint. You want to be able to see the base coat of paint and sand through the brown in random areas on the object.

5) Wash out the paintbrush and stipple the terracotta color paint on the exposed areas of the object that were not covered with the brown paint. Allow the object to dry overnight.

6) Use the water bottle to spray water on the entire object. Use the stipple technique to apply the gray paint over the entire surface of the object, and allow it to dry. The object will most likely need to dry overnight because of the water. The gray paint fades out the brown and terracotta paint, which gives the effect of rust beginning to form through the original metal.

7) Spray the surface of the object with water and splatter the orange paint on random areas across the object. The orange paint should be splattered on areas where rust would naturally form. Hold a paint stick in one hand, and tap the edge of the 1/4-inch paintbrush on the edge of the paint stick. The bristles should be overhanging the edge of the paint stick. This technique will give you control over where the splatters land. Natural rust formation usually occurs along the edges, and on ridges that might collect water.

8) Use the rag to dab the orange paint after you splatter it. Dabbing the paint will flatten the splatters and make them appear like the formation of rust.

9) Allow the newly faux finished object to completely dry before placing it outside. Wait for 24 hours, or at least overnight.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

http://www.madponies.net/verdigris.html   Verdegris

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?categoryId=&pIndex=4&aId=6000022a&multiPageMode=true&start=5

Painting dark bronze
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

http://ultrawerke.blogspot.com/2007/08/rust-painting-tutorial-with-pigments.html

Another great tutorial.

Mycetic Spore Pod Scratch Build

Inspired by Pauls recent scratch build efforts, and motivated by needing a few drop pods for my Warhammer 40K Tyranid army, I set about building myself a couple of mycetic spore pods from household items. GW has not yet released models for all the units available in the Tyranid COdex, so prospective Hive Minds have to convert or scratchbuild in order to use some of the more useful units. I scavenged 2 x 1.25 litre soft drink (soda pop) bottles which were about the right dimenisons I felt for a pod capable of carrying the largest Tyranids into battle. My recent experience with a hot glue gun, a device my 8 year old daughter was only too happy to teach me to use,solved the gluing issues and also provided an excellent opportunity to model ooze and discharge from the pods control vents. A few spare scything talons and terrain pieces from my bitz box , and a couple of scratched CD's completed the materials. I attempted to model a door/opening in the living pod, through which the passengers disembarked, with mixed results. Lesson 1 was wait until each line of glue had cooled sufficiently (aprox 2-3 mins) before placing the next line right next to it, otherwise they blend together in a molten mass....once I worked that out though, the second door was closer to what I was trying to recreate... Next job is trying to work out what colours to use to paint it...brownish yellow ooze anyone??

Dark Age casualty bases

These ones are by 'mikeygees' at TMP - beautifully cinematic aren't they!  More for my 'to do' list...

Paint your Wagon

Recently, the lack of a wagon model forced us to use a giant wooden rabbit as a treasure conveyance (see The Battle of the Bridge here).  Naturally this had to be rectified so we could move on to new silliness.

Presenting my scratch built wagon, made from offcuts in the bits box.  Its mostly balsa wood, which I scribed with a Biro to make the planking effect, matchsticks for the uprights, plasticard and more matchsticks for wheels and coffee stirrers for the limber.  The method is described in detail in Wargames Illustrated Issue 279

I sprayed it black, did some brown dry brushing, added some mud splash effects and filled it with some resin barrels and crates I got from Fenris Games.  Overall, I'm really happy with how it came out, and put it directly to use in a recent game (in which the Lad was saddened by a complete lack of giant wooden rabbits!)

How to Magnetize Terminators

I found this very neat and useful article at the  The War Blog here

How to magnetize AoBR Terminators

For my Warhammer 40k AoBR Blood Angels force I decided to magnetize the right arm of one of the termies, so that I can swap the stormbolter for a special weapon (assault cannon or heavie flamer) in the future. I have seen some tutorials on that but I thought I document my version so you guys can quickly replicate it if you want to. Btw, big question, what do you think is better the assault cannon or the heavie flamer?

Anyway here is the tutorial:

What you'll need:

AoBR Termi; Glue; Magnets; Drill Bits

First you want to remove the little bolt where you would normally attach the arm.

Next you need to drill a small pilot hole for the drill that is the same size then your magnets.

Then you can drill the big hole for the magnet.

After that just glue the magnet in place 

(REMEMBER NOT TO SCREW UP THE POLARITY ON THE NEXT STEP)

Take the arm you want to magnetize...

...drill the hole for the magnet...

...and glue it in place.

(REALLY PAY ATTENTION TO THE POLARITY!)

Let the glue set and then you can attach the arm to the body.

DONE!

If you have any questions, feel free to ask me down in the comments below!

Viking Flags

Made by Ray - thanks champ!  Planning to fly a few from my longhouse too
http://onelover-ray.blogspot.com/search/label/Viking%20flags

Miniature Building construction in foamboard

Pretty sure I don't have the patience, finesse or skills to replicate this guy's efforts, but there is some remarkable stuff here:

http://www.009.cd2.com/members/how_to/nouaillier_a.htm 

Building Dioramas

Anatoli's great WWW2 Diorama - see more here: http://secretsofthethirdreich.com/forums/index.php?topic=689.795

 
As a wargaming focused modeller, I rarely build dioramas, but the prinicoles can generate some fantastic terrain and bases.  Found some great ideas and tips at this website:

http://www.stormthecastle.com/mainpages/dioramas/diorama_index.htm

with some YouTube demo videos


and some great dioramas here for inspiration:
http://www.webpark.ru/comments.php?id=16411
Warning - one of these is a little disturbing, not sure why you would build a diorama of it...

Applying Water Based Decals

Decals make a huge difference to any model vehicle, but I always hate this bit....and since I'm doing them now on my Hetzer and Stummer, I found this tutorial by "Big Lee" very useful

Applying Water Based Decals

I’m in the process of applying decals to several vehicles and thought it was long overdue that I discuss how to do this. Now I’m not an expert by any means, and my experience is limited to the water based ‘slide’ decals that one associates with Airfix Kits (also known as ‘Transfers’) and the type sold by Battlefront for their FOW vehicles. I’ve also bought several other types from other manufacturers but always the water based variety because these are what I am familiar with. Over the years I have encountered several problems when trying to handle and apply these often small and temperamental details. So here’s my troubleshooting guide to applying decals.

Planning the Job

Take a few moments to decide what decals are being applied and where they will be positioned. This is a fiddly job so the more organised you are the easier it will be. You will need several tools before you start, including a sharp knife, tweezers, q-tips, tissue paper, gloss varnish and setting solution (described below). You will also need a shallow bowl - I use a ramekin dish - with warm distilled water.

Prepare the surface

Decals applied directly to a Matt surface can develop a silvery sheen. This is caused by micro bubbles between surface imperfections in the paint and the decal. There are two solutions to this problem. First you could use a Decal-setting solution which softens the decal allowing it to bind more closely to the surface. However setting solutions can cause decals to melt if they are too strong, which could be a problem if you use decals from different manufacturers. The second option, and the one I use, is to use a gloss varnish on the area where the decal is to be applied. Once dry it provides a smooth surface for the decal to adhere to and prevents silvering.

Releasing the Decal

First I cut the individual decal out from the sheet leaving enough backing paper around the decal to hold with tweezers. Soak the decal in WARM water for just 10-15 seconds then take out of the water and wait another 30 seconds. The Adhesive binding the decal to the paper should now have dissolved and the decal can be applied. Soaking too long in cold water runs the risk the decal will separate and end up floating in your water.

Bubbles

Sometimes large visible bubbles can ruin a decal. At the application stage bubbles can usually be brushed away (hold the decal in place with a cotton bud or blunted toothpick then brush the bubble towards the nearest edge). If a bubble is detected on a dry decal the only solution is to pierce the bubble with a pin or knife and smoothing with a damp brush. Weathering (see below) and varnishing can cover up smaller bubbles.

Excess water

I usually wet the surface before application to make it easier to reposition the decal. Once in position though it is necessary to remove as much excess water as possible and start the drying process allowing the decal to adherer. A dry brush tip can be used to draw off excess water, or for larger areas a dry cotton bud or q-tip. Another option is to use the corner of a piece of tissue paper. Whichever method you use be careful not to touch the decal at this point because it will not have adhered to the surface yet and could be moved.

Cracked Ink

I have found that decals often vary in quality from one manufacturer to another. Think decals can sometimes crack or split when applied on uneven or curved surfaces. If this happened the modeller has only two options. Either remove and replace the decal before it dries, or paint over the decal filling in the gaps. For simple decals like American Stars or Balkan Crosses this can be quite straightforward but is a nightmare for complex unit insignia.

Deep surface detail

In real life unit or national insignia were often applied across door breaks and engine covers etc. It may be necessary to apply a decal across a deep grove or other large surface detail which can use creases or bubbles. The best solution is to use a sharp knife to score the decal once it is in place. The knife needs to be sharp because the last thing you want is to move the decal as you drag a blunt blade through it. Apply a small amount of setting solution to ‘melt’ the decal into the grove or around a bolt etc.

Adhesive Stains

Some decals have more adhesive biding them to the backing paper than others. Sometimes this adhesive is not entirely dissolved when the decal is applied and creates a ‘stain’ on the model surface. These can usually be removed by wiping the area with a wet brush or q-tip but again, be careful not to touch the decal and accidentally move or damage it.

Seal in Place

I always varnish my models to make them durable when handling but even if you don’t do this you should consider applying a gloss varnish over the decal. This softens the raised edges and blends them into the paint job. Additional weather can be added over the top of this coat to further blend the decal into the model. Finally I apply Testors Dulcoat over the whole model to create a uniform surface.

I hope you've found this guide useful, and of course if you have any other suggestions or tips I'd love to hear them (this dog likes to learn new tricks). There are also several other guides online that you can refer to such as the Flames of War guide to Decals and Doctor Faust's Painting Clinic.

http://bigleesminipaintingblog.blogspot.com/2010/07/applying-water-based-decals.html

Painting Winter Camo

Chipping and sponging to get winter effects, from the FOW website:
http://www.flamesofwar.com/Default.aspx?tabid=110&art_id=1736&kb_cat_id=27

I so need a set of these!

Don't you think?

http://www.westwindproductions.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=126_145

28mm Aliens Review

Great summary of all the 'aliens' style figs out there, in a 28mm -ish scale
http://dawnofthelead.com/2010/10/19/alien-miniatures-a-review/

Painting Rust Tutorial

This is a great tutorial about how to generate realistic rust effects
http://plinthcountry.com/blog/?s=tutorial4

Thanks Demi!